by erin thursby scopes1925@msn.com
“ZAITOON (pronounced zay-toon) n. 1. the Arabic word for “olive” 2. an offering of peace; 3. a garnish to wonderful food; 4. “Northeast Florida’s most distinctive Mediterranean grill”
Zaitoon is a relatively new restaurant, just half-a-year old, hidden on the right arm of the upscale Harbor Village Shopping Center, notable for its Steinmart and decorative, beach-inspired fountains.
Because they haven’t done a whole lot as far as advertising is concerned and because they’re tucked out of sight in the shopping center, Zaitoon Grill is still a bit of a secret. It won’t be long, though, before they’re discovered.
Dark wood, lush vibrant colors and a sultry menu make this a great place for unconventional romance. Why take her to a French restaurant when you can do something that’s far more exotic?
Zaitoon cuisine delves deeply into the Mediterranean, borrowing from each tradition in the area—Spanish, French, Italian, Greek and Middle Eastern. The Mediterranean is such an intriguing mélange of cultures and cuisines, so Zaitoon has plenty to choose from. They blend tried-and-true family recipes with contemporary techniques.
A dark wood, full bar serves the need of Zaitoon’s patrons. The wine list is more than adequate, with wines not just from the Mediterranean, but from around the world. The wine by-the-glass menu is broken down by taste rather than by just reds and whites. Later on, in the by-the-bottle section, it’s also grouped by country. Listed from lighter flavored wines to more full flavored wines within each country. This way you can try a wine that fits your palate with the minimum amount of fuss. They also have wine flights, a selection of three, 2-ounce tastes of different wines. There’s a decent list of after-dinner coffee liqueur drinks and a martini list.
The appetizers, called “tapas” in the Spanish tradition, are divided into items that are served cold or hot. On the warmed or hot side, you’ll find spanakopita, a Greek dish of butter brushed phyllo pastries baked and filled with spinach, sweet onion and feta. There’s also flash fried calamari and the ever-popular Middle Eastern favorite of kibbie. Under the cold tapas there are a number of spreads for breads, including a signature dipping sauce. In this section I’d have to recommend the layered hummus here over their plain hummus. Fresh tomato, cucumber, red onion, kalamata olive, spinach and feta cheese top this layered hummus dish.
Like most good Mediterranean restaurants, Zaitoons includes a lentil soup on the menu. The soup selection is sparse as it is most places, with just a few selections, but the salad section makes up for it with a number of varied choices. I sampled the Roasted Beet & Curried Walnut, served up generously with feta on a bed of mixed spring greens. Salads served here come in side portions or full portions and side portions come with all kebab entrées.
Skewerless kebabs form the bulk of the lunch menu, including tasty lamb, beef and savory chicken. The best choice is a combo kebab of two different kinds of meat. At dinner try Zaitoon’s Spanish Paella, with local shrimp, mussels, clams, calamari, and chicken sautéed in a white wine then baked over a chorizo and oven dried tomato risotto. You might want to sample their classically Greek Moussaka, a napoleon of eggplant, potato, ground sirloin, lamb and tomato with a Bechamel, or white sauce. Chicken lovers will find it hard to resist the description of their Sicilian Chicken, grilled and served with dried chilies, potato, bell peppers, tomato, olives, capers, and red wine amid basmati rice.
Under desserts you might want to give the kataifi a try. This Middle Eastern treat is also very common in Greece. It’s made from a light, shredded dough topped with honey or a sweet syrup. There’s also the classic baklava. I sampled a raspberry and baklava that was just plain delish.
So if you’re looking for a new place to go, give Zaitoon a try. They’ve got a great bar, a patio for smokers and excellent kebabs.
13475 Atlantic Blvd., Ste. 40, Jacksonville. 904-221-7066
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