Beach Wise - Surfing and Activities in and around Jacksonville

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by shaun robbins    shaerobb@gmail.com

Forecasted Conditions

      Lose your wetsuits and dust off your baggies because summer is here. The water right now is around 70 degrees and perfect for skinning it. Saturday we should start to see some Northeast winds coming in at 10 to 15 knots and increasing to around 20 knots by Saturday evening. This should produce a Nor’easter wind swell with some rough, but rideable large surf. The wind should stick around for Sunday and die out on Monday.

      When the wind does die out, the waves should clean up. Catch it if you can, because unfortunately after this there is no surf out there for the rest of the week. That’s right; Lake Atlantic is back to its normal calm self for at least a little while. But don’t take my weekly word for it, call or log onto your local report daily to find out what the present conditions are for your favorite break.

      If you are like me, and need a little something to hold you over until the next surge comes, here is a little story of one of my past surf sessions here at Jax Beach.

Fuel for the Wait

      It was a cold morning when my friend and I slipped our wetsuits on and strapped our surfboard to our legs at a secluded spot with no one else in sight. It was solid 4-foot bombs, with larger sets coming in regularly. We quickly paddled out, becoming super-stoked because each wave we passed produced a perfect barrel as it broke.

      Left and right we dropped into perfect barrel after perfect barrel, paddling right back out waiting only long enough to catch our breath before dropping into the next wave. This continued for the next hour and a half until neither of us could paddle anymore. We caught one more barrel into shore worn out from a solid day of surfing, with only the morning gone, and an afternoon session still to come.

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