by erin thursby scopes1925@msn.com
I’m always searching for another fine dining spot in the Jacksonville area. More often than not, I end up at the Beaches. This past week I visited Mezza Luna in Neptune Beach, where Chef Tony Pels whips up some of the finest food in the area. It’s not hard to find, as it’s located in the Town Center, which straddles the Atlantic and Neptune Beach line. Both sides offer up some fine food choices, with Ocean 60 on the Atlantic Beach side and Mezza Luna on the Neptune Beach side.
While much of the menu pays homage to the Italian roots of Mezza Luna, with a sure focus on Mediterranean-style cuisine, there are plenty of dishes that make a nod toward the fusion or world cuisine that has become popular in the last ten years. Wine aficionados ordering dinner at Mezza Luna will love the extensive wine list and those who enjoy mixed drinks will be glad for the full bar..
Chef Tony Pels has an impressive resume to back up his stellar cooking. Before purchasing the Mezza Luna and revamping the menu with more of a global bistro twist than the formerly more Italian menu, he was the executive chef of The Augustine Grille at the Marriot Sawgrass. Prior to that, he worked in the Amstel Hotel in Amsterdam, and helped open three Moscow hotels for the Marriot group.
He’s worked with renowned chefs such as Julia Childs and Wolfgang Puck. Besides the numerous culinary accolades and awards he has amassed, this year he took home the prize from the World Chocolate Gala.
The atmosphere of Mezza Luna is both cozy and upscale, with low lighting and a pretty little courtyard. We sat inside for our dining experience, amidst candlelight and warm colored walls. The only thing that took away from the atmosphere was the paper laid over the tables. It makes for easy clean up, but it takes away a little from the experience. The dividing center of the restaurant features a brick, wood-burning stove which the Chef uses to cook up the delicious specialty pizzas and all of the lovely bread they serve.
We began our meal with three appetizers: the Crispy Vagabondo Calamari, Italian Croquettes and the Ahi Tuna Tartare. Each of these are distinctive and tasty, with attention to presentation and juxtaposition of flavor. We brought a friend who considers himself an authority when it comes to calamari. The look on his face when he tried the calamari appetizer was enough to sell me, and that was before I even tasted it. The sharp saltiness of the calamari is mitigated by soaking it in milk before it is battered and fried. It tasted utterly fresh, without a trace of the rubbery texture calamari can sometimes get when it has sat in a freezer for too long or is overcooked. If you love the taste of deep fried cheese, but are bored with the standard mozzarella sticks that you can find from here to New York, consider ordering the Italian Croquettes. Filled with creamed risotto and mozzarella, this enchanting appetizer has an unmistakable tang lent to it by whole grain mustard. Fans of raw tuna simply should not miss a chance to taste the Ahi Tuna Tartare, which is set apart by a ginger aioli and a sweet soy sauce. Choosing a favorite appetizer between the three was difficult, since each had its own uniquely delicious flavor profile.
Ahi aficionados might also want to dive into the Szechuan Style Ahi Tuna as an entrée. This salty oriental-style treasure gets high marks for presentation and it packs a powerful flavor. My husband chose the Paella from the specials. I was impressed that it was served properly, in a Paella pan, and it was closer to what you might find in an upscale Spanish restaurant. The dish was also mainly seafood instead of mainly rice, so we felt that we got more for our money. If ordering Cuban Paella, be prepared for something a little different in flavor. I also sampled the stuffed veal chop special, which was pan seared, lovingly stuffed with prosciutto and fontina cheese, then baked and topped with an astoundingly good wild mushroom sauce, for a savory symphony of flavors.
Despite all these temptations, I saved room for dessert, knowing that Chef Pels has won numerous awards for his sweet culinary confections. They serve classics like crème brulee and tiramisu. The tiramisu is called a tiramisu tini and is served in a martini glass for a very lovely presentation. I ordered the Hot Chocolate Caramello Cake, a sweet contrast to the vanilla bean ice cream and fresh strawberry served on the side.
If you want to eat at Mezza Luna, keep in mind that they are only open for dinner and that they get crowded on the weekends. Although they accept walk-ins, reservations on the weekend are the way to go.
After eating at Mezza Luna, I can’t imagine anyone ordering an item they won’t like. The menu items aren’t made up of incredibly exotic fare, most of the items can be found at restaurants of mid-range price; the difference here is the extraordinary quality and the dining experience.
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